The Craft Story of Pumps
Celebrating Punjab's Jutti Heritage
Timeless Style Meets Village Craft
When luxury brands release "leather pumps" priced at £1,080 that look strikingly similar to traditional Punjabi juttis, it's a reminder that some of fashion's most coveted designs have roots that run much deeper than runway trends. While these controversies spark important conversations about cultural inspiration and attribution, we want to shift the spotlight to where it truly belongs: celebrating the centuries-old craft of jutti-making and the artisans who've kept this beautiful tradition alive.
What Makes a Jutti So Special?
Every great fashion moment has a backstory — and sometimes, that story begins thousands of miles away from the runway. The timeless story of juttis takes us back over 500 years to the villages and streets of Punjab — in both India and Pakistan — where these handcrafted shoes were worn by people from all walks of life. Before the advent of the Mughals in India, leather and natural fibres were used in making footwear for ordinary people, and juttis, traditional Punjabi footwear, are crafted in the villages, with each pair reflecting the artisan's creativity and craftsmanship.
Think of it as the pointed-toe elegance of a ballet flat meeting the handcrafted soul of a Moroccan babouche, finished with the intricate detailing of couture embroidery. Unlike Western loafers with their structured soles and formal silhouettes, juttis embrace a completely different philosophy of footwear.
Traditionally made from leather, the jutti is flat-soled and hand-embroidered with silk threads, beads, mirrors, or even gold and silver wire. Here's something amazing: it has no left or right shoe - over time, it moulds uniquely to your feet. While loafers bring a structured, Western preppy aesthetic, and ballet flats carry Parisian romance, the Punjabi jutti offers something else entirely: a celebration of colour, texture, and craft.
As versatile as a neutral loafer yet as statement-making as a glitter heel, it can be worn with jeans for a casual brunch or paired with formal South Asian attire for weddings and festivals.
A jutti's signature lies in its embroidery and silhouette, and here's what we love most about them: they're for everyone! Women's styles often feature pointed toes and vibrant embellishments, while men's versions lean towards muted tones, simpler patterns, and a broader toe. Either way, the design tells a story — from floral motifs inspired by Mughal gardens to geometric patterns echoing Punjab's architectural heritage.
From Villages to Royal Courts: A Heritage That Endures
The Punjabi jutti traces its lineage back to the royal courts of the Mughal Empire and the Sikh kingdoms, where both Muslim and Sikh nobility wore ornately embroidered footwear as symbols of prestige. However, this wasn't just royal footwear – these designs evolved from the practical shoes worn by everyday people across Punjab. Over centuries, the style became woven into Punjab's cultural fabric, representing not just style but the artisanal economy, rural craftsmanship, and intergenerational knowledge.
Today, we're seeing renewed appreciation for this heritage craft. Recently, Bollywood actor Akshay Kumar returned to the runway after 12 years as a showstopper, exuding royal charm in an ivory embroidered sherwani with silver juttis at India Couture Week. His outfit perfectly captured the spirit of traditional elegance – and those silver juttis? They stole the show.
From Bollywood actors styling them with couture lehengas to South Asian diaspora artists pairing them with contemporary silhouettes, the jutti's versatility continues to shine.
Where Culture Lives and Breathes
In Punjab, juttis are worn by both men and women for weddings, festivals, and everyday outings, transcending age and occasion. They're not just shoes – they're storytellers. The curved toe isn't just aesthetic, it's also practical for sitting cross-legged during prayers and celebrations. The intricate embroidery often tells family stories, with patterns passed down through generations of artisans. From the bustling streets of Amritsar to the wedding halls of Chandigarh, from Lahore's vibrant bazaars to Karachi's cultural celebrations, juttis mark life's most precious moments across the Punjab region. They're the footwear of choice for grooms stepping into new beginnings and brides dancing at their mehendi ceremonies. In cities like Amritsar, Patiala, and Lahore, as well as countless villages across both sides of Punjab, artisans still cut, stitch, and embroider each pair by hand, passing their skills down through generations. Each pair takes hours — sometimes days — to make, representing not just a product, but a living heritage that breathes life into the fashion industry and deserves global recognition.
The Style Evolution: Then and Now
Traditionally, juttis were crafted in rich velvets and brocades, often in deep jewel tones with gold threadwork. Today's versions embrace this heritage while expanding the palette. We're seeing everything from minimalist leather designs perfect for everyday wear to maximalist party pieces that command attention.
Juttis have, for centuries, added character to every Indian outfit, simultaneously giving the desired panache with denim. This versatility is their superpower – they're equally at home with a silk saree or distressed denim. The Punjabi jutti's journey from royal courts to global fashion proves that authentic style is timeless. When we choose to celebrate and support traditional crafts, we're not just making a fashion statement – we're ensuring that these beautiful traditions continue to thrive for generations to come.
This is part of Forefront: a series bringing the origins of fashion trends to the centre stage.
Next in our series: We'll explore how the Indian dupatta has been reimagined as the global fashion world's favorite "statement scarf" – and the incredible artisans keeping this weaving tradition alive.
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Step into Sustainable Style
Ready to add some royal heritage to your wardrobe? Here's how you can support authentic jutti artisans and make mindful fashion choices:
Choose Authentic Brands: Support brands like Needledust, Coral Haze, or Fizzy Goblet that work directly with Punjabi artisans. But also consider seeking out local artisans when travelling or through community connections – many of the most beautiful juttis are still unbranded and made by master craftspeople working independently.
Support Artisan Cooperatives: Look for buying opportunities that connect you directly with artisan communities, whether through craft fairs, cultural centres, or organisations that work to bridge the gap between traditional makers and modern markets.
Embrace the Versatility: Don't feel pressured to wear them only with Indian outfits. Pair them with a floaty dress, a power suit, or your favourite denim. Fashion is about personal expression, and juttis are perfect for experimenting with cross-cultural style.
Share the Story: When someone inevitably asks about your juttis, tell their story. Every time we share its name and origins, the Punjabi jutti stays firmly rooted in the place it came from. Education is activism.
Care for Your Investment: These are handcrafted pieces that deserve proper care. Remember, they have no left or right shoe and will mould uniquely to your feet over time – that's part of their magic!
